Friday, November 10, 2006

Taman Negara : A Malaysia Beauty

Taman Negara, a national park located in the Malaysian Peninsula stretching over an area of 4,343 sq. km. Originating before the Congo and the Amazon, it is considered one of the oldest jungles in the world having been left untouched for the past 130 million years. This great rainforest sprawls across the states of Pahang, Kelantan, and Trengganu.

Although the forests of the Northern Hemisphere were affected by the advance and retreat of glaciers until the end of the last Ice Age some 10,000 years ago, the landscape of Malaysia's rainforests have been geologically stable, without any major uplifting, folding, subsidence or deposition.Taman Negara (simply meaning National Park) originated from Pahang State Legislation in 1925. More than 1,300 sq. km of tropical jungle in its natural state was designated as "The Gunung Tahan Game Reserve". In 1938-39, it was declared a National Park through enactments of the States of Pahang, Kelantan, and Terengganu, and named King George V National Park. It was changed to Taman Negara after Independence in 1957. It has been preserved well and is almost intact to this day.

Climate:
Situated between 4-5degrees north of the equator, Taman Negara receives rain throughout the year at around 2,200-mm per annum in the lowlands rising to more than 3,800-mm in the mountains. At the Kuala Tahan area, the driest month is February with an average precipitation of 71-mm and the wettest month is October with 275-mm. Rainfall is mainly heavy thunderstorms in the late afternoon followed by a sunny morning and mid-day. The northeast monsoon influences precipitation greatly, bringing heavy rainfall from November to February and causing floods in low-lying areas of the park.


Therefore during this wet spell, from November 15th to January 15th, the park is closed to visitors.Within the lowland forest, temperature varies little throughout the year. It measures at about 26 degrees Celsius in the middle of the day and 22 degrees Celsius at night, with a humidity rate constantly above 90%.

Topography:
The Topography of Taman Negara is generally hilly and mountainous. The lowland area covers only about ten percent of the park, and this is where most of the Taman Negara visitors' facilities are centered. Most of the low-lying areas are covered with lowland dipterocarpaceous forest. The center of the park is mountainous and lies on sedimentary rock, whereas the remainder is comprised of granite and scattered outcrops of limestone. The highest point is Gunung Tahan (which means the forbidden mountain) at 2,187-m above sea level. The lowest aspect is Kuala Atok, which is about 75-m above sea level. Gunung Tahan marks the Pahang-Kelantan border.

The limestone formations are spectacular to view in Taman Negara. In some places, these occur as magnificent cliff-sided outcrops. Gua Pening at (713-m) is Peninsular Malaysia's highest. Limestone was originally deposited beneath the sea as an accretion of fine material principally derived from shells and corals. Under intense pressure these sediments became rock, and with uplifting the limestone was subjected to the erosive forces of wind, rain, and streams. There is a limestone mountain chain between the Trenggan River and Kenyam River: the largest mountain being Gua Besar, which is visible from Teresik Hill. Close to Kuala Tahan is the limestone cave, Gua Telinga. Further south, in the catchment of Sungai Ruil, is Gua Landak, which was only first explored in 1986. Further west are outcrops such as Gua Tumpat, Gua Siput, and Gua Cemara, and none of them are as yet easily accessible to visitors.

Rainforest Ecosystem:
The tropical rainforest in Taman Negara ranges from lowland dipterocarp forest to montane and ericaceous forest at higher altitudes. The lowland forest is a highly diverse and complex ecosystem comprising of tall, largely evergreen trees, which include many tropical hardwood species like the abundant meranti and keruing. Their characteristics are woody epiphytes and thick stemmed lianas. The 50-m tall tualang trees with their buttress roots and crowns are distinctive of the lowland plant community. Ferns can be often seen climbing high up a tree trunk or branch where it is mostly brighter. These are called epiphytes. They are unable to survive in the darkness at ground level because they have no connection with the ground. They gather nutrients from the rain and the debris that collects around the plant. That's why epiphytes do not grow very large. More than 240 species of trees can be found in a single hectare of forest here compared with an average of seven in a forest in Europe.


There are also climbing plants that range from slender soft-stemmed creepers to giant lianas. Some are as thick as 30cm, with many leafy branches spreading out among the treetops. The rattan - spiny stemmed climbing plants - are among the most common.

Strangling figs (Ficus) - with stems that descend from a high branch of a host tree, then divide, rejoin and thicken around the trunk - can also be seen. The fig's leaves crowd out those of the host. Eventually, the host tree dies. There are trees that flower and give fruit every year, and others that do so only once in every four or more years. Some trees and climbers flower from the main stem rather than from the leafy branches. They are called cauliflower.


Most rainforest trees replace their leaves progressively; some of the larger trees lose all their leaves once a year, and stand bare for a week or two before the new leaves sprout. Overall, however, the rainforest always maintains an evergreen appearance. The undergrowth in the virgin forest is relatively open in most places because of year-round darkness on the forest floor. Buttresses, climbers, stranglers, palms, epiphytes, cauliflower - all in a multi-layered, evergreen and ever-moist forest - form Malaysia's tropical rainforest, or otherwise known as Malaysia's "Green Heart".

Over 14,000 species of plants exist within the park. All the functioning processes of the forest are interlinked in an extraordinarily complex web of mutual dependence.

Termites and fungi break down dead wood and leaves, and recycle nutrients into the soil. Through the chlorophyll in the green leaves, the plants harness the sun's energy to produce their building materials. All animals depend directly or indirectly on plants for food. The plants in turn depend on the animals for pollination and seed dispersal. The eagle eats the snake, the snake eats the frog, the frog eats the dragonfly, the dragonfly eats the caterpillar, which eats the leaf... Yet the existence of any kind of plant or animal has never been destroyed completely; there are always some that will live long enough to breed and ensure the continuation of the species. The jungle sustains its own balance, its own harmony; and it happens without the involvement of human beings. It is full of mysterious creatures, and each has a specific role in maintaining the fragile balance of life.

Animal and Bird Fauna:

Around 200 species of mammals and 250 species of birds exist in Taman Negara. The dense foliage of Malaysia's rainforests supports about 160 elephants. A sparse population of the highly endangered Sumatran rhinoceros exists but is very rarely sighted. Malayan tapir (pig-like mammals) are fairly common, especially at Kumbang and Belau and are perhaps one of the most commonly seen and photographed of the large mammals. Two species of deer, mouse deer and barking deer, are well distributed. Wild boars are extremely common and together with the deer, form an important item on the tigers' menu. Primates like the white-haired gibbons and the long-tailed and pig-tailed macaques are abound in the forest.

A variety of squirrels are found, with black and common giant squirrels being among the largest. At dusk, the nocturnal red flying fox can be seen gliding from tree to tree. Tigers exist in fair numbers and may be found along the tributaries of the Tembeling river. The leopard that exists mainly in the black variety is much rarer with few sightings. The cloud leopard and Malaysian sun bear, though rarely seen, often leave their calling card in the form of deep claw marks on tree trunks.

Other smaller predators in the park include the leopard cat, civet cats, and the yellow-throated marten. Otters like the 46-cm long Oriental small-clawed otter may also be seen along the banks of the Tembeling Monitor lizards, agamids and skunks can be seen. Many species of snakes including the reticulated python, common cobra and king cobra are also found. Cave racers (long white snakes), several species of bats and Malaysian giant toads can be found in caves, especially in Gua Talinga, the cave nearest to Kuala Tahan.


More than 250 species of resident and migratory birds have been recorded. The best period for bird watching is from September to March when migrant birds like the ashy minivets, and the arctic and eastern crowned warblers are around. Along the river courses, the lesser fish eagle may be seen gracefully in flight over the water. Kingfishers are plentiful along the river too. The forest shelters some of the world's most spectacular terrestrial birds. The great Argus is the largest, whose loud penetrating double call is often heard day and night. The Malaysian peacock pheasant, crested fireback and crestless fireback are fairly common and can be seen along trails. Brilliantly colored pittas are represented by resident giant, garnet and banded pittas.

During winter, migrant blue winged and hooded pittas add colour to the forest's beauty. Some of the largest raptors like the serpent eagle and hawk-eagle are often seen. In the mountain forest of Mount Tahan, the silver-eared mesias, chestnut-capped laughing thrushes and shrike-babblers can be seen foraging. Taman Negara is the home of the two endemic montane birds, the hill prinia that occurs only in the Padang and the crested Argus that is found on Mount Taban, Mount Gagau and Mount Rabong. Crimson-breasted flowerpeckers may be seen near the forest edges and grey-breasted spiderhunters are commonly found near flowering shrubs and trees in the lower and middle strata of the lowland rainforest. The latter's favorite food is wild bananas and ginger.


By Dr. Nadia El-Awady

Malaysia : Truly Asia

Malaysians are the most smiley people I've ever met! They give a fresh, new meaning to service with a smile because those who smile are not necessarily paid to do so. Even those you meet on the street, in shops, and elsewhere are glad to help you with a radiant smile.

Maybe it has to do with me traveling by myself, but I believe one of the most rewarding experiences of traveling to Malaysia is coming into contact with the people themselves. True to their smiles, Milo-sipping Malaysians themselves have an endearing culture. In their language, for example, Malaysians have spellings that make more sense than the original English ones. Here's a sampler: kaunter (counter), komputer (computer) sains (science), sistem (system), sentral (central) and air (water) … OK, perhaps not the last one.

No matter where I went, there was always someone I could ask for directions, and contrary to what I was accustomed to, they only gave directions when they knew! Otherwise I got a "sorry" with, yet again, an apologetic smile.

Emerald City — Without the Glasses!

The first thing that struck me as my plane approached Kuala Lumpur's international airport was "Oh, my God, it's green!" Having lived my life between Egypt and the Emirates, I was accustomed to seeing vast yellow areas from tiny plane windows.

The sweet temperament I described above is undoubtedly a result of the lush greenery found in this country. Yet sometimes one forgets that along with the beautiful scenery comes a considerable amount of wildlife. In Langkawi, the island where I spent the first three days, this wildlife is part and parcel of everyone's lives. In the hotel where I stayed, I was greeted by lizards of all shapes, sizes, and colors crawling up the walls and ceilings of the lobby and restaurant. To say something in protest would be as absurd as to go to the beach and complain about the wet sand on your feet. "So?" the response would come.

After being told by one of the residents that a monkey had jumped her breakfast table and grabbed her food, I wasn't surprised to find a monkey peering from a tree opposite my balcony. Instead, I grabbed my camera, too scared to open the window, and, like a true city girl, snapped pictures through the glass.

Taking pictures became an obsession in Malaysia. For some reason, I felt that if I kept taking pictures, I would somehow be able to transfer the essence of being there. At the risk of sounding cliché, I must admit that seeing is believing.
The mangrove tour that takes you in and out of caves on a boat is a beautiful experience as visitors are surrounded by scenery fit for postcards. Our tour nearly got canceled as it rained heavily that morning. During the summer, it rains almost 60 percent of the time, typical of the monsoon climate. Yet when the rain stopped, our guide decided to go ahead with the tour and, sure enough, the sun shone brightly the rest of our trip.

On one of the trips, known as Island Hopping, I came across another charming experience. While we were on the beach of one of the islands, I saw a few Malaysians put their feet into a nearby fish pond. Looking closely, I found the pond filled with cuttle-fish that were apparently nipping the immersed feet as a form of massage! "It feels like little kisses," said a daring tourist who plunged her feet in. Not me, thank you.

On the same tour we were taken to see the
Pregnant Maiden Lake, so called because of a mountain formation that resembles a pregnant lady lying on her back. Due to an island legend, the residents solemnly believe that women having trouble conceiving are cured once they drink from this lake's fertility-enhancing water.

An absolute must-do in Langkawi is a ride through a cable car hung across mountains. It provides a stunning view of the island where visitors see all the various colors of landscape that exist. Must not be missed, must not be missed!

Independence Day

While making my travel plans, I made a conscious decision to be in Kuala Lumpur on August 31, the day the capital celebrates Independence Day, or Hari Merdeka. On this day, the country marks the formation of Malaysia and its independence from British colonial rule.

The fireworks around the Petronas Towers, the world's tallest freestanding twin towers, began at midnight and went on for at least 10 minutes. The next day when I visited the national museum, I was met with a group of high school students who had spent the night there to decorate and celebrate in their own way. They danced, sang patriotic tunes, and wrote signs that showed what Independence Day meant for them. This is some of what they had written:

--->To me freedom is everything a country needs. Before Merdeka (independence), there was no freedom. People were fighting for it. Thinking of them makes me feel very sad and makes me appreciate more our peaceful and harmonious country, Malaysia.

--->Freedom is being free from stress, wars, fights, pain, pollution and sickness. Being free from all this and being free from dangers. Peace is the best thing a country can ever want. That's why Malaysia is the BEST country in the world to be in.

--->Freedom … well freedom is something everyone has now compared to the past. We are now better off. Freedom can be anything but the most important freedom in the world is being free from the control of another powerful country. Now everyone can talk freely and to do our daily stuff without any stress and it is important never to abuse it or we will once again be controlled.

Besides the shopping that Kuala Lumpur is so famous for, there are many things to see and do. Lunch at the revolving restaurant, maybe? It's at the top of the Kuala Lumpur Manara where a stunning panoramic view of the city awaits visitors. If you've got the time and money to do so, another must-do is to indulge in one of those surreal spa experiences.

A Gastronomic Delight

Part of getting to know a culture, I believe, is indulging in its indigenous food. The minute I arrived to Malaysia, I made a conscious decision to steer clear of any "international" food and to keep seeking out Malay restaurants. (A confession is due: I went weak when I saw Starbucks Coffee, but this was the only time!) "All the food in Malaysia is halal!" so many cabdrivers volunteered to tell me, even while I asked about buildings. This made me turn on my adventurous palate to full power, and yes, I'm afraid, lowered my health-sensibilities to the lowest possible. I was far from disappointed.

Nasi lemak is a popular breakfast dish.

Malaysians take their breakfast seriously. Nasi lemak, which is rice cooked in coconut milk and served with a variety of condiments including chili paste, anchovies, boiled eggs, and cucumbers, is a main feature on their breakfast table.

If you're like me and you have your doubts that you may stomach a breakfast that heavy so early in the morning, believe me you can. After coming back I still yearn for my morning nasi lemak!

In Malaysia, a mix of ethnicities live side by side. Hence, Malaysian cuisine is diverse, as the dishes borrow from Thai, Chinese, and Indian flavors. Spice is a major ingredient in most dishes, and even for the untrained gastronomic adventurer, it will be evident that most food in Malaysia is deliciously smothered in coconut milk.

And dessert? Too many good things to choose from. "Eat now, cry later," I kept telling myself! All I can say is that I came back with an incurable state of kaya-dependency.
Kaya
is a jam-like green paste that is spread on toast and also used as filler for many desserts. So dependent have I become on this jam, made of eggs, coconut milk, sugar and pandan leaves, that I bought a jar at the airport to gradually wean myself from it!

Only recently discovered as a tourist destination, Malaysia has something to satisfy every vacationer's need. Relaxation? There are the beaches. Adventures? There are exciting trips through the forest that tickle your danger-seeking bone and the mangrove tours in Langkawi. "Truly Asia" is not just an advertising slogan for Malaysia, but a living reality! I am definitely going back!


By
Lamya Tawfik
Freelance Journalist — Egypt

Thursday, November 9, 2006

Malaysia : A Mix Culture






Cultures have been meeting and mixing in Malaysia since the very beginning of its history. More than fifteen hundred years ago a Malay kingdom in Bujang Valley welcomed traders from China and India. With the arrival of gold and silks, Buddhism and Hinduism also came to Malaysia. A thousand years later, Arab traders arrived in Malacca and brought with them the principles and practices of Islam. By the time the Portuguese arrived in Malaysia, the empire that they encountered was more cosmopolitan than their own.

Malaysia's cultural mosaic is marked by many different cultures, but several in particular have had especially lasting influence on the country. Chief among these is the ancient Malay culture, and the cultures of Malaysia's two most prominent trading partners throughout history--the Chinese, and the Indians. These three groups are joined by a dizzying array of indigenous tribes, many of which live in the forests and coastal areas of Borneo. Although each of these cultures has vigorously maintained its traditions and community structures, they have also blended together to create contemporary Malaysia's uniquely diverse heritage.

One example of the complexity with which Malaysia's immigrant populations have contributed to the nation's culture as a whole is the history of Chinese immigrants. The first Chinese to settle in the straits, primarily in and around Malacca, gradually adopted elements of Malaysian culture and intermarried with the Malaysian community. Known as babas and nonyas, they eventually produced a synthetic set of practices, beliefs, and arts, combining Malay and Chinese traditions in such a way as to create a new culture. Later Chinese, coming to exploit the tin and rubber booms, have preserved their culture much more meticulously.

A city like Penang, for example, can often give one the impression of being in China rather than in Malaysia.

Another example of Malaysia's extraordinary cultural exchange the Malay wedding ceremony, which incorporates elements of the Hindu traditions of southern India; the bride and groom dress in gorgeous brocades, sit in state, and feed each other yellow rice with hands painted with henna. Muslims have adapted the Chinese custom of giving little red packets of money (ang pau) at festivals to their own needs; the packets given on Muslim holidays are green and have Arab writing on them.

You can go from a Malaysian kampung to a rubber plantation worked by Indians to Penang's Chinese kongsi and feel you've traveled through three nations. But in cities like
Kuala Lumpur, you'll find everyone in a grand melange. In one house, a Chinese opera will be playing on the radio; in another they're preparing for Muslim prayers; in the next, the daughter of the household readies herself for classical Indian dance lessons.

Perhaps the easiest way to begin to understand the highly complex cultural interaction which is Malaysia is to look at the open door policy maintained during
religious festivals. Although Malaysia's different cultural traditions are frequently maintained by seemingly self-contained ethnic communities, all of Malaysia's communities open their doors to members of other cultures during a religious festival--to tourists as well as neighbors. Such inclusiveness is more than just a way to break down cultural barriers and foster understanding. It is a positive celebration of a tradition of tolerance that has for millennia formed the basis of Malaysia's progress.