Malaysia : Truly Asia

Malaysians are the most smiley people I've ever met! They give a fresh, new meaning to service with a smile because those who smile are not necessarily paid to do so. Even those you meet on the street, in shops, and elsewhere are glad to help you with a radiant smile.

Maybe it has to do with me traveling by myself, but I believe one of the most rewarding experiences of traveling to Malaysia is coming into contact with the people themselves. True to their smiles, Milo-sipping Malaysians themselves have an endearing culture. In their language, for example, Malaysians have spellings that make more sense than the original English ones. Here's a sampler: kaunter (counter), komputer (computer) sains (science), sistem (system), sentral (central) and air (water) … OK, perhaps not the last one.

No matter where I went, there was always someone I could ask for directions, and contrary to what I was accustomed to, they only gave directions when they knew! Otherwise I got a "sorry" with, yet again, an apologetic smile.

Emerald City — Without the Glasses!

The first thing that struck me as my plane approached Kuala Lumpur's international airport was "Oh, my God, it's green!" Having lived my life between Egypt and the Emirates, I was accustomed to seeing vast yellow areas from tiny plane windows.

The sweet temperament I described above is undoubtedly a result of the lush greenery found in this country. Yet sometimes one forgets that along with the beautiful scenery comes a considerable amount of wildlife. In Langkawi, the island where I spent the first three days, this wildlife is part and parcel of everyone's lives. In the hotel where I stayed, I was greeted by lizards of all shapes, sizes, and colors crawling up the walls and ceilings of the lobby and restaurant. To say something in protest would be as absurd as to go to the beach and complain about the wet sand on your feet. "So?" the response would come.

After being told by one of the residents that a monkey had jumped her breakfast table and grabbed her food, I wasn't surprised to find a monkey peering from a tree opposite my balcony. Instead, I grabbed my camera, too scared to open the window, and, like a true city girl, snapped pictures through the glass.

Taking pictures became an obsession in Malaysia. For some reason, I felt that if I kept taking pictures, I would somehow be able to transfer the essence of being there. At the risk of sounding cliché, I must admit that seeing is believing.
The mangrove tour that takes you in and out of caves on a boat is a beautiful experience as visitors are surrounded by scenery fit for postcards. Our tour nearly got canceled as it rained heavily that morning. During the summer, it rains almost 60 percent of the time, typical of the monsoon climate. Yet when the rain stopped, our guide decided to go ahead with the tour and, sure enough, the sun shone brightly the rest of our trip.

On one of the trips, known as Island Hopping, I came across another charming experience. While we were on the beach of one of the islands, I saw a few Malaysians put their feet into a nearby fish pond. Looking closely, I found the pond filled with cuttle-fish that were apparently nipping the immersed feet as a form of massage! "It feels like little kisses," said a daring tourist who plunged her feet in. Not me, thank you.

On the same tour we were taken to see the Pregnant Maiden Lake, so called because of a mountain formation that resembles a pregnant lady lying on her back. Due to an island legend, the residents solemnly believe that women having trouble conceiving are cured once they drink from this lake's fertility-enhancing water.

An absolute must-do in Langkawi is a ride through a cable car hung across mountains. It provides a stunning view of the island where visitors see all the various colors of landscape that exist. Must not be missed, must not be missed!

Independence Day

While making my travel plans, I made a conscious decision to be in Kuala Lumpur on August 31, the day the capital celebrates Independence Day, or Hari Merdeka. On this day, the country marks the formation of Malaysia and its independence from British colonial rule.

The fireworks around the Petronas Towers, the world's tallest freestanding twin towers, began at midnight and went on for at least 10 minutes. The next day when I visited the national museum, I was met with a group of high school students who had spent the night there to decorate and celebrate in their own way. They danced, sang patriotic tunes, and wrote signs that showed what Independence Day meant for them. This is some of what they had written:

--->To me freedom is everything a country needs. Before Merdeka (independence), there was no freedom. People were fighting for it. Thinking of them makes me feel very sad and makes me appreciate more our peaceful and harmonious country, Malaysia.

--->Freedom is being free from stress, wars, fights, pain, pollution and sickness. Being free from all this and being free from dangers. Peace is the best thing a country can ever want. That's why Malaysia is the BEST country in the world to be in.

--->Freedom … well freedom is something everyone has now compared to the past. We are now better off. Freedom can be anything but the most important freedom in the world is being free from the control of another powerful country. Now everyone can talk freely and to do our daily stuff without any stress and it is important never to abuse it or we will once again be controlled.

Besides the shopping that Kuala Lumpur is so famous for, there are many things to see and do. Lunch at the revolving restaurant, maybe? It's at the top of the Kuala Lumpur Manara where a stunning panoramic view of the city awaits visitors. If you've got the time and money to do so, another must-do is to indulge in one of those surreal spa experiences.

A Gastronomic Delight

Part of getting to know a culture, I believe, is indulging in its indigenous food. The minute I arrived to Malaysia, I made a conscious decision to steer clear of any "international" food and to keep seeking out Malay restaurants. (A confession is due: I went weak when I saw Starbucks Coffee, but this was the only time!) "All the food in Malaysia is halal!" so many cabdrivers volunteered to tell me, even while I asked about buildings. This made me turn on my adventurous palate to full power, and yes, I'm afraid, lowered my health-sensibilities to the lowest possible. I was far from disappointed.

Nasi lemak is a popular breakfast dish.

Malaysians take their breakfast seriously. Nasi lemak, which is rice cooked in coconut milk and served with a variety of condiments including chili paste, anchovies, boiled eggs, and cucumbers, is a main feature on their breakfast table.

If you're like me and you have your doubts that you may stomach a breakfast that heavy so early in the morning, believe me you can. After coming back I still yearn for my morning nasi lemak!

In Malaysia, a mix of ethnicities live side by side. Hence, Malaysian cuisine is diverse, as the dishes borrow from Thai, Chinese, and Indian flavors. Spice is a major ingredient in most dishes, and even for the untrained gastronomic adventurer, it will be evident that most food in Malaysia is deliciously smothered in coconut milk.

And dessert? Too many good things to choose from. "Eat now, cry later," I kept telling myself! All I can say is that I came back with an incurable state of kaya-dependency. Kaya

is a jam-like green paste that is spread on toast and also used as filler for many desserts. So dependent have I become on this jam, made of eggs, coconut milk, sugar and pandan leaves, that I bought a jar at the airport to gradually wean myself from it!

Only recently discovered as a tourist destination, Malaysia has something to satisfy every vacationer's need. Relaxation? There are the beaches. Adventures? There are exciting trips through the forest that tickle your danger-seeking bone and the mangrove tours in Langkawi. "Truly Asia" is not just an advertising slogan for Malaysia, but a living reality! I am definitely going back!


By Lamya Tawfik
Freelance Journalist — Egypt