Friday, November 10, 2006

Taman Negara : A Malaysia Beauty

Taman Negara, a national park located in the Malaysian Peninsula stretching over an area of 4,343 sq. km. Originating before the Congo and the Amazon, it is considered one of the oldest jungles in the world having been left untouched for the past 130 million years. This great rainforest sprawls across the states of Pahang, Kelantan, and Trengganu.

Although the forests of the Northern Hemisphere were affected by the advance and retreat of glaciers until the end of the last Ice Age some 10,000 years ago, the landscape of Malaysia's rainforests have been geologically stable, without any major uplifting, folding, subsidence or deposition.Taman Negara (simply meaning National Park) originated from Pahang State Legislation in 1925. More than 1,300 sq. km of tropical jungle in its natural state was designated as "The Gunung Tahan Game Reserve". In 1938-39, it was declared a National Park through enactments of the States of Pahang, Kelantan, and Terengganu, and named King George V National Park. It was changed to Taman Negara after Independence in 1957. It has been preserved well and is almost intact to this day.

Climate:
Situated between 4-5degrees north of the equator, Taman Negara receives rain throughout the year at around 2,200-mm per annum in the lowlands rising to more than 3,800-mm in the mountains. At the Kuala Tahan area, the driest month is February with an average precipitation of 71-mm and the wettest month is October with 275-mm. Rainfall is mainly heavy thunderstorms in the late afternoon followed by a sunny morning and mid-day. The northeast monsoon influences precipitation greatly, bringing heavy rainfall from November to February and causing floods in low-lying areas of the park.


Therefore during this wet spell, from November 15th to January 15th, the park is closed to visitors.Within the lowland forest, temperature varies little throughout the year. It measures at about 26 degrees Celsius in the middle of the day and 22 degrees Celsius at night, with a humidity rate constantly above 90%.

Topography:
The Topography of Taman Negara is generally hilly and mountainous. The lowland area covers only about ten percent of the park, and this is where most of the Taman Negara visitors' facilities are centered. Most of the low-lying areas are covered with lowland dipterocarpaceous forest. The center of the park is mountainous and lies on sedimentary rock, whereas the remainder is comprised of granite and scattered outcrops of limestone. The highest point is Gunung Tahan (which means the forbidden mountain) at 2,187-m above sea level. The lowest aspect is Kuala Atok, which is about 75-m above sea level. Gunung Tahan marks the Pahang-Kelantan border.

The limestone formations are spectacular to view in Taman Negara. In some places, these occur as magnificent cliff-sided outcrops. Gua Pening at (713-m) is Peninsular Malaysia's highest. Limestone was originally deposited beneath the sea as an accretion of fine material principally derived from shells and corals. Under intense pressure these sediments became rock, and with uplifting the limestone was subjected to the erosive forces of wind, rain, and streams. There is a limestone mountain chain between the Trenggan River and Kenyam River: the largest mountain being Gua Besar, which is visible from Teresik Hill. Close to Kuala Tahan is the limestone cave, Gua Telinga. Further south, in the catchment of Sungai Ruil, is Gua Landak, which was only first explored in 1986. Further west are outcrops such as Gua Tumpat, Gua Siput, and Gua Cemara, and none of them are as yet easily accessible to visitors.

Rainforest Ecosystem:
The tropical rainforest in Taman Negara ranges from lowland dipterocarp forest to montane and ericaceous forest at higher altitudes. The lowland forest is a highly diverse and complex ecosystem comprising of tall, largely evergreen trees, which include many tropical hardwood species like the abundant meranti and keruing. Their characteristics are woody epiphytes and thick stemmed lianas. The 50-m tall tualang trees with their buttress roots and crowns are distinctive of the lowland plant community. Ferns can be often seen climbing high up a tree trunk or branch where it is mostly brighter. These are called epiphytes. They are unable to survive in the darkness at ground level because they have no connection with the ground. They gather nutrients from the rain and the debris that collects around the plant. That's why epiphytes do not grow very large. More than 240 species of trees can be found in a single hectare of forest here compared with an average of seven in a forest in Europe.


There are also climbing plants that range from slender soft-stemmed creepers to giant lianas. Some are as thick as 30cm, with many leafy branches spreading out among the treetops. The rattan - spiny stemmed climbing plants - are among the most common.

Strangling figs (Ficus) - with stems that descend from a high branch of a host tree, then divide, rejoin and thicken around the trunk - can also be seen. The fig's leaves crowd out those of the host. Eventually, the host tree dies. There are trees that flower and give fruit every year, and others that do so only once in every four or more years. Some trees and climbers flower from the main stem rather than from the leafy branches. They are called cauliflower.


Most rainforest trees replace their leaves progressively; some of the larger trees lose all their leaves once a year, and stand bare for a week or two before the new leaves sprout. Overall, however, the rainforest always maintains an evergreen appearance. The undergrowth in the virgin forest is relatively open in most places because of year-round darkness on the forest floor. Buttresses, climbers, stranglers, palms, epiphytes, cauliflower - all in a multi-layered, evergreen and ever-moist forest - form Malaysia's tropical rainforest, or otherwise known as Malaysia's "Green Heart".

Over 14,000 species of plants exist within the park. All the functioning processes of the forest are interlinked in an extraordinarily complex web of mutual dependence.

Termites and fungi break down dead wood and leaves, and recycle nutrients into the soil. Through the chlorophyll in the green leaves, the plants harness the sun's energy to produce their building materials. All animals depend directly or indirectly on plants for food. The plants in turn depend on the animals for pollination and seed dispersal. The eagle eats the snake, the snake eats the frog, the frog eats the dragonfly, the dragonfly eats the caterpillar, which eats the leaf... Yet the existence of any kind of plant or animal has never been destroyed completely; there are always some that will live long enough to breed and ensure the continuation of the species. The jungle sustains its own balance, its own harmony; and it happens without the involvement of human beings. It is full of mysterious creatures, and each has a specific role in maintaining the fragile balance of life.

Animal and Bird Fauna:

Around 200 species of mammals and 250 species of birds exist in Taman Negara. The dense foliage of Malaysia's rainforests supports about 160 elephants. A sparse population of the highly endangered Sumatran rhinoceros exists but is very rarely sighted. Malayan tapir (pig-like mammals) are fairly common, especially at Kumbang and Belau and are perhaps one of the most commonly seen and photographed of the large mammals. Two species of deer, mouse deer and barking deer, are well distributed. Wild boars are extremely common and together with the deer, form an important item on the tigers' menu. Primates like the white-haired gibbons and the long-tailed and pig-tailed macaques are abound in the forest.

A variety of squirrels are found, with black and common giant squirrels being among the largest. At dusk, the nocturnal red flying fox can be seen gliding from tree to tree. Tigers exist in fair numbers and may be found along the tributaries of the Tembeling river. The leopard that exists mainly in the black variety is much rarer with few sightings. The cloud leopard and Malaysian sun bear, though rarely seen, often leave their calling card in the form of deep claw marks on tree trunks.

Other smaller predators in the park include the leopard cat, civet cats, and the yellow-throated marten. Otters like the 46-cm long Oriental small-clawed otter may also be seen along the banks of the Tembeling Monitor lizards, agamids and skunks can be seen. Many species of snakes including the reticulated python, common cobra and king cobra are also found. Cave racers (long white snakes), several species of bats and Malaysian giant toads can be found in caves, especially in Gua Talinga, the cave nearest to Kuala Tahan.


More than 250 species of resident and migratory birds have been recorded. The best period for bird watching is from September to March when migrant birds like the ashy minivets, and the arctic and eastern crowned warblers are around. Along the river courses, the lesser fish eagle may be seen gracefully in flight over the water. Kingfishers are plentiful along the river too. The forest shelters some of the world's most spectacular terrestrial birds. The great Argus is the largest, whose loud penetrating double call is often heard day and night. The Malaysian peacock pheasant, crested fireback and crestless fireback are fairly common and can be seen along trails. Brilliantly colored pittas are represented by resident giant, garnet and banded pittas.

During winter, migrant blue winged and hooded pittas add colour to the forest's beauty. Some of the largest raptors like the serpent eagle and hawk-eagle are often seen. In the mountain forest of Mount Tahan, the silver-eared mesias, chestnut-capped laughing thrushes and shrike-babblers can be seen foraging. Taman Negara is the home of the two endemic montane birds, the hill prinia that occurs only in the Padang and the crested Argus that is found on Mount Taban, Mount Gagau and Mount Rabong. Crimson-breasted flowerpeckers may be seen near the forest edges and grey-breasted spiderhunters are commonly found near flowering shrubs and trees in the lower and middle strata of the lowland rainforest. The latter's favorite food is wild bananas and ginger.


By Dr. Nadia El-Awady

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